Hello South America

South America
I have wanted to come here for so long!

Santiago

We arrived in Santiago and from the first day the transition was the easiest so far. I don't know if its speaking the language or all the Central America travel we have done but it has been pretty smooth. It feels like slightly European Mexico. I had heard very mediocre things about Santiago. The area we stayed in was not supposed to be the safest. But it was no different than a US big city. It was far less intimidating than Bangkok and no one tried to scam us. We were here four nights at one of the best lodging we have had. They call it a hostel but really its more like a B and B or guest house with excellent service and a good location.

One of many murals around Santigao

I have read every Isabelle Allende novel and a lot of Pablo Neruda. Now I am in their country. The words and images they have left in my mind are coming alive in a new way. I had the same feeling in England, like you are walking through the novel, movie, poem or TV show that you have a memory or image of in your mind. It adds layer to your experience of the story on top of what was already there. I did not expect this and it is very cool.

Street art on the way to Neruda's house

We took a walking tour with an excellent guide one day that covered Chilean history and culture. There we met Jeane from LA, our first fellow Californian we have met. She joined us the next day and we went to Pablo Neruda's house and got another dose of history and culture. It left me feeling sad because his life ended as it did. But also thinking about the complex history of Chile that is still not resolved and developing. 

Pabol's house in Santiago

From there we went up the Cerro (Hill) San Cristobol in the tram, climbed to the top for views and lunch and started to walk to one of two public pool in this huge municipal park. Santiago looks a lot like southern CA and even LA. Dry brown hills surround you in a valley. Did I write hills? What am I doing calling the Andes hills, they have snow on top even now in summer! Okay, so we are walking and we finally get there. I am expecting a run down, not well maintained pool. I mean this is a developing country, right? No its beautiful, clean, landscaped, has views and is packed with people. In fact its closed to any more people. They direct us to the second pool which is supposed to be even more beautiful with a 360 view of the Andes. We are too hot and tired so we get a cab and redirect our adventure. We go out to Los Condes a fancy neighborhood closer to the foothills of the Andes, to a big Arts and crafts fair. Lots of beautiful stuff and great variety. And after Asia the relief of no pushy sales people. We also wandered around the neighborhood with tree lined streets and single family homes, mountains looming in the background.

Dave and view of Santiago from the hill top

The pool in the park

A couple more things we noticed in Santiago. There is great street art, much left behind from this years of student protests and unrest. You could take photos of it all day. Someone has to have done a book. There are also lots of galleries and used book stores. Books are very expensive here and yet  there is a very high literacy rate. We also noticed may theaters and art spaces. There was a big festival going on and we tried to get tickets but it was sold out for the shows we were interested in while we were here. In the same big arts complex there were several free galleries we visited. And the second good performance art piece of the trip (the first was in the equally free museum in Bangkok). This one was a glass booth, lite inside, surrounded by bales of hay. Spectators sat on the hay and watched as any one who wanted went in the booth and hugged. Just hugged. It was surprisingly calming to watch. Really lovely.

Garbriella Minstral Art Center

There is trash and dog poop around. The river that runs though the city is very polluted, a disgusting color. But the street dogs are a whole different story. They are well cared for and friendly, even mellow. Many look like breeds, particularly German Sheppard, but there are mutts. There are dog houses around in parks and in front of buildings. People give them bones, water and food. At least in the downtown and touristy areas they seems to have a good life.

Valpario
We spent four nights here as well. How to describe this unusual city? It a UNESCO world heritage site. Steep, house covered hills on one side, the port and ocean on the other. The multi colored houses climb up the hills and tumble down at the same time. There is color every where, some bright and lively, some faded and tired. Crumbling, rusting, decaying yet full of life, heart and spirit. Dogs and cats all over the place. The street art is even more abundant than in Santiago. We take so many photos we worry our batteries will die. The only other place I took this many photos was Japan. 

View from our room

We visited Pablo Neruda's house here, "La Sebastiana" which has amazing views of the city. He came here for New Years when ever he could to watch the fire works. We took a day trip to his most famous house in Isla Negra. It is right on the coast in a spot that looks like it could be in Carmel CA. We feel like we really got to know a bit about him and his life here in Chile through our visits to his 3 homes.

Pabol's house "La Sebastiana"

Dave and Pablo

One of Pabol's many collecsions. this one is at Isla Negra

We wandered around the hills taking photos of street art and views. We took our second "free" walking tour where you pay what you want as a tip at the end . It was  not quite as good as in Santiago but still well worth it.

Street Art

Street art

And more street art

We left here at 11:00pm on our first night bus. We had primo seats which recline in to beds and come with blankets and pillows. The next morning another bus and a taxi ride later and we arrive at Los Morros where we will be for the next week relaxing by the beach in a very small fishing village. More on that next blog.

Street art about art