We spent most of our time on the South Island in Nelson. Nelson is supposed to be the sunniest place in NZ and very Santa Cruz like. It lived up to both of these descriptions. We had ten straight days of warmth and sun. We got there right after they had the most rain they had ever had in recorded history which caused flooding and mud slides, people lost their homes. We were there 12 days and the last two were rainy. We rented a small apartment in a beautifully restored house from the 1800s. Our landlords were Deidre and Wally, who lived in the main part of the house. They were wonderful giving us a Christmas tree, advice about what to do around town and including us in their family Christmas day celebrations. The house is right across from the river which is bordered on both sides by a park. On one side is a path for walking and bike riding.
| Dierdre and Wally in front of their house |
| Anika and our cute tree |
We really relaxed in Nelson. It did not feel like we ran around seeing things although we did get out and about. The house was walking distance to everything, grocery store, library (Dierdre lent us her card), pretty walks along the river and through town. We joined a gym/pool across the river, 5min. walk away, for 25$ for a week. One of the most pleasant events we participated in was the Christmas eve caroling. The whole town, and all the visitors it seemed like, gather in front of the cathedral to sing carols. The town organizes this and gives out song sheets with the words and candles. The town band and choir preform. It was a nice community event.
| View from the bride of the river in front of the house |
Our biggest excursion and one of the reasons we came to this part of the island was to go to Abel Tasman Park. We spent our last day without rain kayaking and hiking through the park. It was beautiful and fun.
| Dave and Anika kayaking |
| One of the views from the Abel Tasman trail |
| Dave after a day of kayaking and hiking |
Anahata
For New Years we drove from Nelson to the Anahata Retreat, a yoga ashram high on a mountain at the North end of Abel Tasman park. The road had washed out in several places during the first big rain and we drove up during the second big rain. It was a hairy ride in our little rent a car. But the road was in better condition than some we have driven in Costa Rica over our years of travel there. We stayed up there for three nights, eating good simple vegetarian food, meditating, chanting and generally following the life of the yoga community. It was more of a spiritual religious community than a yoga only retreat. The yoga physical itself was quite gentle compared to what we do at home. One of the best things about this experience was the people. Both the people who lived there (I think there are about 15) and the guests like us were very mellow and down to earth. No one had an attitude like I am more enlightened than you. Nor did it feel like anyone was pushing their dogma on us. We met some great people I hope to stay in touch with. The group was mostly from NZ, Europe and the US.
| The yoga class meeting room |
The mountain side itself was beautiful. Sheep grazed around us. The buildings were hidden in the forest on one side. From the sheep pastures there were amazing views of the bays and park. Unfortunately it was raining much of the time so we did not get to do much walking and exploring.
| Beautiful view on one of the few clear days |
Anika had a really good time here. I realized that she needs to have more people to socialize with. Their age really doesn't matter. Some how I am going to look for these opportunities in the countries to come. When we left the energy between us as a family was qualitatively different. I guess we were all more at peace with ourselves. It didn't last forever but it was a good feeling.
| Sheep and Sky |
Last Days in NZ
From Anahata we spent a string of one nights at places working our way back to Auckland and the airport. We only passed through Takaka and had lunch but it left a big impression with its artsy shops and hippie atmosphere. We stopped that night in Picton where we had to get the ferry back to the North island, another nice small town. Then we stopped on the way to Whanganui to visit with Jasmin and her husband Clark. Jasmin is Anika's home school teacher and through a fluke she and Clark were staying at a friend's house north of Wellington for winter break. We had a great day with them clamming and playing on the beach. They made us an amazing dinner and then we had to leave. It was hard to go. But really fun to see friends from home while on the road!
| Jasmin and Clark |
| Us clamming |
We spent that night in Wanganui, a town on a river. It was very cute and we would have stayed longer if we could. From there we were off to Waitamo and the glowworm caves. Happily there was no rain and we drove through pretty countryside. Our first evening at the cave area we did a short hike first in day light and then a shorter walk at night in the same area. The day hike showed us what the “bush”, as they like to call it here, looked like and gave us a peek into some caves. The vegetation was very prehistoric feeling with all the tree ferns and unfamiliar plants. At night we went back to see the glow worms. It was very magical and surreal. They glow and seem to have a veil of something between you and them.
| The family reflected in a sculpture |
Early the next morning. (Anika would say too early) we went on a black water raft trip through the caves. This seemed like such a NZ thing. They have to keep thinking up fun stuff to do because they are so far away from every thing and everyone else. So you put on super thick wet suits, super thick damp wet suits I should point out, booties, boots, and a helmet with a lamp. You are driven to the cave area where you get instructions. They have you practice jumping backwards into your raft which is an inner tube. Then you go to the cave entrance which is a small opening in the ground. The river is rushing through the opening. Once inside there is a bigger open area where you get more information about the cave and how to behave. The rest is hard to describe. You walk , float, slide, jump and shiver your way on the river through the cave. The water is rushing and from ankle deep to to deep for me to tell. Besides stalactites and rock formations there are of course glow worms, millions of them like stars at certain points. It is an other worldly experience. The best point to me was floating through one tunnel, its pitch black and quiet and you are looking up at what could be the sky but its glow worms on the roof of the cave. The only bad part was the cold water. And I didn't love jumping backwards off a water fall but I got used to it quick.
That was our last great adventure. From there we headed to the airport after a night to rest. Of course we had to stop and send a package of the things we had accumulated in NZ. Not as big as those from Asia, this was package # five, but still important stuff. This one is supposed to take only 10-25 days. Everything goes by air from NZ, no slow boats like our other stuff went on. So far two packages have made it. Keep your fingers crossed for us!
| More sheep and sky |
Final Thoughts on NZ
The color of New Zealand is green in every shade and hue.
| Forest in the Northland |
We all loved NZ . Dave and I really want to go back. We just did not get enough of the South Island. The best part for me was the people we met who I would like to stay in touch with. The people are very laid back and there is very little arrogance. Some women do have a strange fashion sense, kind of 80s miss mashed together with other ideas, but what we noticed could have been women visitng from Australia. We also noticed men working outside wearing what for us would be 70's style sport shorts in black or navy with work boots as a fasion statement we found amusing. Over all though everything felt so unpretensoius.
We did a lot fo driving, not my favorite way to get around actually but it worked. We had wanted to do the whole camper van thing everyone seems to do when they come here. But renting a car, paying for gas and staying at various types of lodging was cheaper. And with all the rain we had it prevented us from killing each other inside a small self contained space on wheels. There were some themes in what we saw as we drove. Nautrue, lots of open space and not a lot of people. Farms with sheep number one but then cows too, horses, lamas and deer. And art studios or galleries. As you drive there are signs for people's studios and galleries all over the place, ceramics, jewlery, paiting, sculpture. Small towns have art centers and commuity theaters. Everywhere seems to have a library. There is a sense of community that is comforting.
The dogs are all well cared for and trained. We saw no strays. No dog poop on the streets. Many of them are working dogs. There also seemed to be a few favored breeds like sheep dogs of course. There was not much trash and no trash cans but also not a lot of recycling. We heard and found that NZ has this reputation from the past of being very green and eco oriented but that the reality is they are cutting down their forests and using resources in a way that is not unlike the US. There are just a lot less people so the destruction is taking longer.
It is amazing to me to think that this was the last place humans found about 800 years ago, a blip in geologic time. The Polynisian Maoris are another reason I would like to go back to learn more about their culture. The differences and similarities to our Native americans are interesting. They have preserved more of their culture in some ways but they are all one group ( althoug they did not think of themselves that way before Europeans came) with a shared language. We heard people speaking it on the street on the North Island. There are Maori language TV and radio stations. They are guaranteed a certain amount of spots in parliament. All signs are in both languges. But they are the poorest people with many of the same social issues of native people all over the world. NZ reminded me of BC Canada in some ways. There is the nature and big open space and the British influence too. It was very easy to travel here. I really hope we can come back.
| Dave and Anika Rabbit Island Boxing Day 2011 |
Yea! Lysa standing in a waterfall! That's a heaven for her!
ReplyDeleteThank you for the play by play blogs, but I really love the Lysa commentary sections... That said, thanks for keeping the dog conversation happening!
ReplyDeleteI know who knew that a not real dog lover like me would be writing about dogs all the time!
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